We recently spent a week on Stewart Island - a Christmas vacation for us since I will be working over the holidays this year. The island is off the very southernmost point of NZ, and is reached by either ferry across the Foveaux Strait, or plane. Steve graciously agreed to let me maximize my adventure by taking the ferry one way and the plane the other. He gets motion sick very easily, and despite taking "Sealegs" (some anti-motion sickness tablets recommended to us), he felt sick before the boat had even left the dock. About halfway through the hour-long journey, which really was like a non-stop roller coaster, I gently put my hand on his shoulder to ask if he wanted to come stand outside with me. Remaining totally focussed on the island off in the distance, he quickly said "Umm... please don't talk to me right now." With that, I took in the views from the deck, held on tight, and made small-talk with some birders from British Columbia who were on a 3 week tour around NZ.
Here is a slideshow of our pictures. You may need to click the play arrow to start it, and if you want to see captions, or larger versions, just click on the pictures and you will be taken to our online album.
The ferry docked in Oban, the only village on the Island, with a permanent population of roughly 400 people. During the summer months, there are more people there to support the tourism and conservation efforts. We stayed at the South Seas Hotel, in a room that was more like a hostel room with no toilet, only beds and a wardrobe, but still very comfortable and a treat for us. We enjoyed a yummy meal at the South Seas Restaurant (the only one on the island), and packed up to start the Rakiura Track the next day.
The Rakiura Track is the shortest trail on the island, and takes 3 days. There are two other trails which likely would have offered much more exciting scenery, but they both take 7-10 days and we didn't have that long. We also weren't sure how comfortable my backpack would be with my little baby belly starting to push out a bit more... but in the end it was okay, and we ended just as the rainy weather was moving in. The track followed the road and shoreline for the first day, crossed through forest the second, and rejoined the shoreline on the third. We were hoping to spot some Kiwi birds on our journey, since they are well-protected on Stewart Island. The first night, the campsite had been freshly weed-wacked and we guessed that noise would have driven all resident Kiwis into hiding. We still got up in the middle of the night to take a walk and look for them (they are most active at night), but no luck. The second day we were serenaded by a helicopter overhead and the loud buzzing would also have been a deterrent to Kiwis foraging near the trail. The last day, was rainy and muddy, and we were more focused on not losing boots in the mud than spotting Kiwis in the bush. Overall though, it was beautiful, and enjoyable, and we only wish we'd been able to do some of the longer trails.
We had two more days on Stewart Island after finishing the hike. We spent one day walking out to a lighthouse on the outskirts of town. We explored sandy bays along the way and ate a picnic lunch at the lighthouse. That evening, after dinner, while admiring the harbour view, Steve got very excited and started going on about "anticrepuscular rays" and pointing to the horizon. After he'd run to get the camera, he explained that we (well, he) was seeing the opposite of sunrays on the horizon. We were 180 degrees away from the sunset, and it was twilight, and the sunbeams from sunset were converging at a point opposite the sun in the sky. They're somewhat rare and Steve's only seen them a few times, hence his excitement and countless photos. I've included one in our slideshow.
The other day we took a little ferry to Ulva Island, which is a 5 min trip from Oban. The island has no residents and is a bird sanctuary, with trails throughout it and several sandy beaches. We saw at least six species of birds we had never seen before, but weren't able to get any good pictures of them. It was a peaceful, calm day and the forests, birds, and beaches were beautiful. The morning of our departure, we got a ride to the airstrip on the island, and boarded our 6-seater plane for the 15 minute flight back to the mainland. This was definitely a highlight of the trip for AK, whose grandparents once flew a similar plane from the US to the Philippines. Steve felt it was definitely better than the ferry and we were fortunate to have a calm day for flying.
So now we are back in Lower Hutt, hearing about Christmas back home, but it really doesn't feel like Christmas here. The past few days have been muggy and humid, but mostly we've had beautiful weather, and the days are light until nearly 10pm. We are enjoying the summer here much more than the winter.